The Nomos At Work Tangente Silvercut has Arrived at Topper!
For longtime fans who've wished that Nomos' defining Bauhaus design aesthetic might bring something a little more dynamic and fun to the table, the new 'At Work' Silvercut models might just be the answer. Introduced this fall as a special collection of 14 watches, the Nomos "At Work" collection features the 3001 Calibre Neomatik models in slightly upsized cases than the 35-36mm models that debuted in 2015. While most of the "At Work" series are aesthetically very similar to the the smaller Neomatik models, the four "Silvercut" references (Tangente, Tetra, Orion, and Metro) feature a dramatically different dial treatment than the watches that have come before them. Today, we'll be looking specifically at the Tangente 'Silvercut,' and compare it to our first special edition Nomos, the Topper Tangente.
Before this new "At Work" collection came out, if you wanted the quintessential Nomos look (essentially a Tangente) with an automatic movement, you were forced to choose between either a standard 35mm Neomatik model or a 37.5mm Tangomat with the older Epsilon movement. However, the Tangomat is the thickest of the lot, at 8.2mm, and the Neomatik is considerably smaller than most would prefer at 35mm. The 'At Work' Neomatik makes considerable sense – striking a happy medium between the existing automatic options, measuring a very modern 39mm (technically 38.5 according to our calipers) by 7mm thick.
The new 39mm 'At Work' Silvercut Tangente on the left, and the 37.5mm Topper Edition Tangente for comparison on the right.
To get a sense of that size, we bring in another interesting Tangente dial variant that made its debut in 2015, the 38mm Tangente Topper Edition, which measures a comparable 6.9mm thick. As a slight aside, this is a very special watch for us as it has a series of firsts: it was our first Topper Edition watch to come to market, it featured Nomos' first alpha calibre with the then-new Swing System, and it was the first time (to our knowledge) Nomos ever married a white lacquer dial with blue dial accents.
It also exhibits a slight hat tip to Nomos' signature sense of humor, having a lume signature that references our store's 75th anniversary (note the blue lume points for the '7' and '5' on the dial below). The color scheme is maintained with our follow up limited edition Zurich World Timer which features another custom-made lacquer dial and similar color combination, along with our home town of Burlingame mixed into the World's Great Cities.
The new 39mm Tangente 'Silvercut' from the At Work series on a 6.5" wrist.
The 38mm Tangente Topper Edition on a on a 7" wrist.
Those familiar with the 38mm Tangente watches will find that the new 'At Work' also wears very similarly as we measure it as having a 48mm lug-to-lug length which is only slightly longer than the 38mm Tangente's lug to lug length of 47.7mm. The look is of course a little larger due to the increased diameter but it's very subtle.
What really sets the watch apart from other Nomos is the 'Silvercut' dials, which are a stark contrast to the more sober matte hues and traditional galvanized silver dials we've come to know and love from Nomos. Silvercut introduces a generous, horizontal brushed effect whose subtle textures play with the light, and bring a healthy dose of character and wrist presence.
The white lacquered dial on the Topper Edition Tangente for comparison.
The Silvercut dials are made from a proprietary 9-step process, 8 of which are confidential, but one of which includes a special water-blasting treatment, which ultimately yields the finely textured brushed effect. Both on and off the wrist, the effect is striking, making it easily one of the most dynamic dials in the Nomos catalog – past or present.
A much closer look at the contrast between the running seconds register on the new 'Silvercut' dial
As with the standard Tangente Neomatik, the subdial retains the textured circular guilloché, adding a touch of depth to the dial while amplifying the contrast with the horizontal brushing. It's an extremely nice effect, and one that Russ and I think is going to make a lot of present and future Nomos collectors very happy.
The DUW 3001 Neomatik is presented on the left in the new 'At Work' Tangente.
Lastly, each At Work watch is powered by the in-house manufactured DUW 3001 'Neomatik' calibre. Not only does this in house movement feature its proprietary 'Swing System' (a collective reference to their in house balance spring, lever, and escape wheel), but the movement is ultra-thin at 3.2mm thick, which enables the overall watch to measure only a hair over 7mm. It is quite the treat to behold the movement through the exhibition caseback, with signature Nomos perlage like blued screws and Glashutte striping.
If you are interested in learning more about the new Nomos 'At Work' collection or would like to check out the Tangente Silvercut, we'd welcome you to inquire by calling Topper Jewelers at 888-730-2221 or emailing firstname.lastname@example.org.The Topper Blog consists mainly of original writing by Rob & Russ Caplan with occasional special contributions and interviews. All photography in the blog is taken at Topper Fine Jewelers , or on location unless otherwise indicated in the photo captions.