La Fabrique Tinkler 1958 Steel

A faithful tribute to the Tinkler 1958 repeater

From its establishment in 1891, the name Angelus has been synonymous with the chiming of a bell. A ringing that has resonated throughout history, marking time in towns and villages long before personal timepieces were invented. Almost exactly 130 years ago, on 15 April 1896, the brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz filed one of the Maison’s first patents for ‘a silent strike governor for repeater mechanisms’. Since then, repeater mechanisms have always been at the heart of Angelus collections.

Putting this technical philosophy to meaningful use, Angelus designed Braille- repeating watches for soldiers blinded during the First World War. They indicated time using sound or touch through hour markers paired with Braille markers – an approach to watchmaking in which technology was fully dedicated to functionality

Angelus went on to direct its research to other complications and patented several major inventions, including the famous Chronodate in 1942. In the 1950s, Angelus returned to repeater mechanisms, filing a patent for ‘a striking wristwatch’ in 1958. This was immediately followed by the Tinkler, equipped with this patented movement and considered a pioneer of water-resistant, self-winding quarter-repeater watches.

Inspired by this glorious history, Angelus is today reissuing one of its rarest, most refined models: the Tinkler, based on the original 1958 edition. The gold version is limited to 15 pieces, while the steel version is limited to 25.

The 38-mm case charms with a decidedly 1950s aesthetic – clean, understated and elegant. At 9 o’clock, the crown is balanced by a pusher that activates the quarter repeater, a functional and historical hallmark of the model. The screwdown case back bears the ‘A’ monogram, a discrete yet distinct reminder of the Maison’s identity.

The subtly domed white sunburst dial features the hour markers characteristic of the original piece. At noon, the modernist-style numeral 12 underscores the watch’s character, while at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock – key positions for the quarter repeater – distinctive, exclamation-shaped hour markers appear. Complex and delicate, with a gilded finish, these dial elements complete a faithful tribute to the heritage of Angelus.

The Tinkler 1958 comes on an alligator flank leather strap, an original choice that further enhances the watch’s vintage and idiosyncratic character. The leather is a deep ink blue for the 18-carat gold version and a warm saddle brown for the steel model. The pin buckle, matching the case, comes in gold or stainless steel.

The Tinkler 1958 edition is driven by the new Angelus A600 calibre. On request, by pressing the pusher at 9 o’clock, it strikes the hours and the quarters. Each hour is marked by a clear strike on the first gong. If necessary, the calibre then performs a double strike on two gongs to signal each quarter hour, up to a maximum of three sequences. True to its heritage as a maker of measuring instruments, Angelus takes an acoustic approach that is both distinctive and accessible. The Tinkler collection features clear, precise, striking.

The Angelus A600 self-winding mechanical calibre beats at 4 Hz and offers a 70-hour power reserve. Its finishing demonstrates the watchmaker’s attention to detail: snail-finished main plate, palladium-plated bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève with polished angles, rimmed wheels, blued and chamfered screws with mirror-polished heads, and a tungsten sunburst oscillating weight.